Christmas in Chiang Mai

Hi Bloggers,

Just had a nice few days in Chiang Mai. Would have liked to have spent longer but needed to back in Bangkok to work on my Diploma.
River Ping

The place has developed a lot, but still has its old worldy charm. In fact, it's a great example of successful urban development. I was unlucky with the weather, as it rained for the whole of Boxing Day, which meant I had to cancel my ride into the mountains. I did, however, make it out to Doi Saket and the awesome resevoir out there (see pic). OK, it's man made, but that detracts nothing from it. And the ride out there is just idyllic. Not many tourists do this trip, as they're usually focussing on the more famous Doi Suthep.

Doi Saket Resevoir

I've also posted some pictures of my favourite temple, Wat Chedi Luang. I usually do a few rounds of the stupa, look at the elephant statues and stroke a few temple dogs. The buildings (see below) are classic examples of the kind of fare you can expect all around Chiang Mai.

Finally, I just had to shows some pics of the moat and river. The tree lined moat with its fountains make it a photographer's dream. Here's just a couple, at the bottom.

On a political note, I have quite a few friends in Chiang Mai, and they're all ardent Thaksin supporters and are suitably horrified at what happened in Bangkok with the PAD, etc. In fact, one of my friends told me that members of the PAD were paid 1000 baht a day to protest. Some even say it was the queen herself who sponsored them. Well, the opposition accused the PPP of vote buying, but is this any less corrupt?

Back in Bangkok now. Let's hope the world becomes a less grizzly place than this year, though judging by what's happening in Gaza, that looks unlikely!

Happy New Year, anyway.
Cheers,
Robert

New PM in Thailand

Hi Bloggers,

Well, things seem to have settled down a bit for the time being. There don't seem to be any demos going on in the streets at the moment, though don't be surprised if that changes in the not too distant future!

Basically this new government is the result of political wheeling and dealing, and plenty of horsetrading, including the usual financial backhanders. It's certainly not democratically elected! Nevertheless, Abhisit does seem a reasonable choice superficially, and may even be able to provide a modicum of stability. Interestingly, he was born in England and is a graduate from Oxford University (where I'm proud to say I read myself). So he's pretty articulate and speaks excellent English. Fortunately , he's also disowned the PAD. So let's hope ....

I regularly watch CNN, and one of my favourite reporters is Dan Rivers, based here in Bangkok. Do try and watch his interview with Abhisit if you can. He always asks really tough challenging questions, and had Abhisit on the back foot a couple of times, particularly re: the popularity of Thaksin and his supporters. Dan's interview with the Bali bombers was also a real classic, especially when he tells one of them to his face "you're nothing but a cold blooded murderer, is what you are."

Of course, tourist numbers are well down as you might expect. The only benefit that might come from this is the possibility of some good bargains in peak season, due to the large number of cancellations. My advice is go to hotels in person on spec, as, if they have low occupancy, they might make you an offer there and then.

Anyway, I'm off to Chiang Mai for a few days at Christmas. It's my favourite medium sized city anywhere in the world. Looking forward to getting out into the country and riding up into the hills on my motorbike. Fantastic scenery around there.

Will blog again soon. Have a nice Christmas!

Cheers,
Rob

Airport Aftermath

Hi Bloggers,

So the PAD got their demands and have now finally left the airport. But it was always likely that the court would rule against the PPP, so I wonder why they bothered in the first place. Why didn't they wait till after the court ruling? That way, they would have saved Thailand billions of dollars in lost tourism. In fact, the PAD have cost the country far more than any of Thaksin's dubious transactions. To me this is clear evidence that it's about power, not about the moral purity of a particular government.

Let's look more closely at what's really going on. The PAD are determined that no party representing the rural poor is going to have office. This is, in effect, a class war, and, in my opinion, risks eventually developing into a full blown civil war. There must now be massive discontent countrywide amongst those who voted for the PPP. And, indeed, they have themselves now formed their own protest group, the red shirts.

As it happens, the PPP will probably be able to re-constitute itself under a new name with a new leader, but the PAD will almost certainly continue to harrass them. So I think we can all expect some more fireworks at some point in the not too far future!

At street level, one of the effects of the airport closure is the absence of tourists in Bangkok. This evening, I went for a meal in the normally packed out food court in Sukhumwit Soi 7, and it was virtually deserted. Thousands of people in the tourist industry have had their lives affected by the amazingly inconsiderate actions of the PAD. It's really important the Thai people see through the PAD and banish them completely.

One of the things that disturbs me most is the precedent the whole affair sets. By succeeding like this, a signal has been sent out that it's OK to go to the streets if you don't like a government, even though it was democratically elected. Another worrying feature is the fact that the army is clearly not neutral. The PPP were unable to call on its support throughout the whole crisis. How can any government work when it is at odds with its own army? Anywhere else in the world (almost) the police and army would have worked together quickly to quell the problem.

Anyway, enough for one blog! Let's see how things unfold.

Cheers,
Rob

Mumbai

Hi Bloggers,

It's sad to be following the events in Mumbai. I actually went there about three years ago and must say it's my favourite big city in India. This is the second time Mumbai's been hit, as there were the train bombings a couple of years ago, if you remember. I wish I could say something constructive, but that's pretty difficult with this Islamic terrorism. How can anyone believe that killing innocent people is God's will? What kind of God do they worship? Certainly not one worth worshipping in my book! Do they really believe they will go to Heaven with all that blood on their hands?

Anyway, I've put a couple of my own pics of Mumbai, for all they're worth. Walking around Mumbai is a bit like being in a London mark II. There are so many old colonial buildings there, and in great shape too, which strongly contrasts with Calcutta, where everything is completely dilapidated and in a total state of disrepair. In fact, I've never seen such ubiquitous poverty as I did in Calcutta. I think everyone should go there once in their life if only for educational purposes. You'll never complain about your lot again!

But, getting back to Mumbai, the city has a terrific buzz to it, being not only the commercial hub for India, but also having Bollywood based there. And, of course, there's all the usual markets and colour you'd expect in India, plus the bay, Chowpatty Beach and the Maidan with its never ending cricket. It's also got Asia's largest slum, Dharavi (see link on side bar for pics)!

Anyway, let's hope they can sort it out in Mumbai and that the city will recover despite this tragic, needless and pointless loss of life.

Rob

PAD Thai

Hi Bloggers,

So the farce continues! The PAD are starting to show their true credentials now. They've taken over Bangkok airport, disrupting all departures, thereby threatening further the already diminished tourist trade. Is this good for Thailand?

Surely this alone makes you wonder whether they really have the welfare of Thailand at heart or just care about seizing power, by hook or by crook. Attacking the airport is certainly a most bizarre choice. They've probably chosen it because it was one of Thaksin's pet projects, indeed one of his most successful.

The truth of the matter is that they are just plain bad losers. Their party lost a perfectly fair democratic election. Rather than face this and try to win the bulk of the population over through creative campaigning, they have resorted to bully boy methods. This has been possible largely due to the fact that most PPP supporters are based outside Bangkok. What would happen if the PPP set up similar demonstrations? We would have complete chaos with street fighting and, who knows, even the possibility of civil war!

Remember also that the kind of democracy the PAD want is one of representation for the various "interests" in the country. They would do away with the "one man one vote" system, making sure that the rural poor play a much lesser role in elections and political life in general. How democratic is this?

I've put a picture of a plate of Pad Thai for this blog, as I feel it's a highly appropriate symbol for the PAD. While Pad Thai is a tasty staple Thai dish, it's definitely considered slightly downmarket and rather messy - greasy too, in my opinion. I must admit I hardly ever order it, preferring more exotic dishes like Tom Yam Kung or Thai Green Curry.

As far as the tourist situation is concerned, clearly the global economic crisis is effecting numbers. Technically it's high season, but most locals are saying that numbers are little better than in low season. Mind you, as an expat here, I'm not complaining too much about that!

The next few days should be genuinely interesting.

Beautiful weather at the moment, by the way.

Cheers,
Rob

Financial Tsunami

Hi Bloggers,

Phew, it's been quite a few days on the financial front, and it isn't even over yet! How much have you lost? I've lost about $50,000 on the year so far. However, when things like this happen, I always try and stay philosophical.

Firstly, it's only money! OK, money's important, but there are more important things in life, e.g. health, family, friends, spiritual development, etc. Also, the markets are bound to come back eventually, so if you can tough it out, it's really only time you've lost rather than money. Of course, the older you get the less you can afford that!

Hang on in there!
Good Luck

Robert

New Bike

Hi Bloggers,

I just thought I'd let you know about my latest bike. I'm a keen cyclist, yes, even here in Bangkok, and I love to ride in my free time. There are some great parks around, such as Lumpini, but more particularly Benjakiti, which has its own cycle track around the lake. Surprisingly, there are also quite a few cycle paths around Bangkok, some on special elevated pathways or following the canals, etc.

Anyway, by misfortune I had my Mongoose stolen a couple of weeks ago. I think they managed to decipher my revolving number lock. Right near Siam Square too! So, unfortunately, I had to fork out for a new one, about 9,000 baht. But well worth it!

Here's a picture:

My new bike - a Gary Fisher

What's cookin' !?

Hi Bloggers,

What a farce Thai politics are! Prime Minister Samak showed great determination resisting the PAD, but then meekly went out to a court decree terminating his tenure simply because he took a small sum of money for appearing on a cookery show! Apparently this is illegal according to the constitution.

It'll be interesting to see what the next stage of the saga is, as the PPP say they plan to re-instate him. Will the PAD now vacate the government buildings or stay there just in case Samak returns?

Power's a strange game in Thailand! Who actually has it? I wonder.

Any comments, folks?

Cheers,
Rob

Unrest in Bangkok - PAD

Hi Bloggers,

Well, most of my blogs are about my travel experiences. However, I felt I should make some comment about the current political situation here in Bangkok, where a state of emergency has been declared, following the PAD's demonstrations and occupation of the government buildings.

I'm personally strongly against what the PAD are doing, as they're making an absolute mockery of democracy. No matter what the faults of the current government, they were democratically elected, fairly and squarely in what was generally regarded as a legitimate election last year. To just go on the streets like this and try and force change just because their party isn't in power is to reduce politics to mob rule. And this is definitely not what Thailand needs with its history of military coups. It is important that democratic processes be allowed to take root, ultimately for the benefit of all Thais.

On a more general note, I also think most of the anti Taksin feeling is largely political in nature. Actually, Thailand's economy boomed under him and he was certainly more than a competent leader. Regarding the corruption issue, he did nothing any other Thai politician wouldn't have done. Corruption is simply endemic to SE Asian politics. That's not to condone it, but the point is that he also did a hell of a lot of good for the country. He wasn't simply a guy out to fleece the nation, like Marcos of the Philippines, for example. Taksin genuinely cared about the welfare of Thais, particularly the rural poor.

So, all in all, sad times for Thailand at the moment. It'll be interesting to see how the current turmoil affects investor confidence and tourism.

Hope to get a few pics up soon.

Cheers,
Robert

Cairo

Hi Bloggers,

Well, the main highlights of Egypt were the Pyramids and the trip down to Luxor (see previous blogs). However, Cairo itself is also an amazing place. As in so many developing countries, it's a mixture of beauty and ugliness. It's location on the Nile is truly stunning, and gives it a feel of real grandeur. Just the sheer width of the river with its islands, bridges, cruisers and adjacent skyscrapers! Also the architecture of most of the city is from the early 20th century, which creates an atmosphere of faded glory, most of the buildings having now become pretty shabby unfortunately. In it's day it must have looked really opulent, though.





















There were many features of the city I enjoyed, the main ones being the soukhs and bazaars, the river, the food, the museums, the hubub of the street life, the cafes and, of course, the Egyptians themselves. They were all so different fr0m anything in Asia, where I've spent the last nine years. It was a really refreshing experience!














One thing I really noticed, though, was the absence of women in the forefront, in strong contrast to a country like Thailand, where women seem to almost run the place. I must admit I don't like the way women are repressed in Islamic culture, though Egypt is nowhere near as bad as places like Saudi , where they have to wear the full burkha.

















The Egyptians were friendly, but in a very macho kind of way. You always felt under pressure to shape up .... or else! The downside of being with Egyptians was the dreaded "baksheesh".. Just couldn't get away from it. It seems to pervade the whole culture. It's more than just an optional tip. You're really expected to pay it, and as a foreigner I'm sure I payed well over the odds!


More coming,

Luxor

Hi Bloggers,

I just recently got back from Egypt and one of the highlights was most definitely Luxor. The temples and tombs are well documented, so rather than bore you with more about them, I thought I'd tell you something about the place itself.

The town itself was a real delight. It's a simple trading town, lazy and laid back, traditional yet not without modernity, no doubt due to the constant flow of tourists through it.


Main Soukh

The soukhs are particularly atmospheric, even though it is mostly artifacts and souvenirs for tourists they're selling. And the setting by the Nile really does give it some extra beauty. In fact, it's the kind of place it'd be nice to hang out in for a while, doing nothing special.


Traditional hamlet

Equally interesting for me were the hamlets around the town, particularly on the West Bank. I chose to ride around on a rented bike, and I think passing through those villages, little changed for centuries, was almost as interesting as the ancient stuff. And one could get away from those never ending busloads of tourists!



The wonderful Nile

Anyway, here's some of the touristic stuff, the real reason people come here.

Sphynx and Pyramids

Hi Bloggers,

Just spent six great days in Egypt. I did it as a stop-over on the way back from England, where I'd been for my annual visit to see my folks.

Cairo is an exciting, vibrant, dynamic city, both ugly and beautiful at the same time. But more about that in my next blog. This blog is, of course, concerned with what is the highlight, or even sole purpose, of most people's visit here - the Sphynx and Pyramids.

I'm probably committing blasphemy by saying that I thought the pyramids themselves were quite boring! Huge but lacking any real interest other than their shape and size. No ornate carvings or stylised arches or pillars, etc. Nevertheless, I'm still pleased to have seen the only surviving ancient Wonder of the World!

The Sphynx had much greater appeal for me, particularly in its juxta-position to the pyramids. I love its stance and whimsically expressive face. Pity about the broken nose, though!

Below is a picture of a man on a camel. Needless to say I had to pay for this photo, and this is probably the main downside of visiting the touristic areas of Egypt, the ubiquitousness of locals trying to extract money from you. Mind you, Egypt is pretty cheap, certainly more so than anywhere in Asia. Nice picture too!

Local arab man posing on a camel - for LE10!

Chiang Mai

Me again, bloggers!

Before going off to the UK, I also managed to get in a couple of days in Chiang Mai, as well as the trip to Koh Chang. Chiang Mai is probably may favourite medium sized town pretty much anywhere in the world. The only place to seriously rival it, in my opinion, is Yogyakarta in Indonesia. Chiang Mai is pretty well documented with its abundance of Lanna culture, temples and surrounding hills, etc., so rather than bore you with more of that, I thought I'd just mention here a couple of places some of you might not know about.

First is the existence of Baan Tawai, a village about 30 km south of Chiang Mai which is devoted exclusively to handicrafts. This is where they make them, so you get not only an amazing plethora and range of products, but you also get them at ridiculously cheap prices. Most of the stuff is wooden, but there's also ceramics, metal work and some fantastic furniture. Basically to get there, go towards Hang Dong and take a left.

Another great place is the resevoir near Doi Saket. When the water's high it's an awesome view. It's pretty tricky to find, though, but it's on the other side of the motorway from the Doi Saket temple (itself well worth a visit). You turn off at the Chinese cemetry and follow the canal, wiggling through some idyllic little villages. Eventually you'll see the huge banks of the resevoir.

Koh Chang

Hi Bloggers,

I've just spent a few days on Koh Chang on the S.E. coast of Thailand. It was the first time I'd been there, and I must say it was really idyllic, much less developed than Phuket or even Koh Samui. In fact, it's rather like Koh Samui was about ten years ago.

There are some important differences, though. The main one is the hilly nature of the place. It makes for some really spectacular views, but also some pretty hair-raising experiences if you're on a motorbike! Also the beaches aren't quite as good as those on the more reknowned islands. Mind you, this is compensated for by the dense jungle interior and some fine waterfalls.

Vacationing back in the U.K. now before stopping-over in Cairo on the way back.

Angkor and Bayon

Hi Folks,

The Angkor complex is without a doubt one of the most inspiring places to visit anywhere in the world, and surely ranks up there along side Macchu Pichu and the Pyramids, etc. I had actually been there once before, in 2000, but was happy to go again, this time with my friend Gerrit, who had come over from Japan specially.

I personally find the Bayon area the most interesting, with all those giant smiling faces. One can walk around for hours bemused just by the sheer magnitude of the whole thing. Interestingly, most of it pre-dates Buddhism and is consequently largely Hinduistic in design. Not only are there temples, but also, of course, the king's palace and the various terraces around it. Funnily enough, the view from the Leper's Terrace always reminds me of Scotland!

View from the Leper's Terrace


Ta Phrom is also extremely atmospheric, not least because in places the jungle is still trying to reclaim it. Certainly when the original explorers discovered it earlier in the century, it must have seemed liked a fantasy, and no wonder film direcors used it for the Lara Croft movies. The only drawback now is that it's difficult to get away from all the other tourists. Damn inconvenient they are!


The fig tree reclaims Ta Phrom