New Bike

Hi Bloggers,

I just thought I'd let you know about my latest bike. I'm a keen cyclist, yes, even here in Bangkok, and I love to ride in my free time. There are some great parks around, such as Lumpini, but more particularly Benjakiti, which has its own cycle track around the lake. Surprisingly, there are also quite a few cycle paths around Bangkok, some on special elevated pathways or following the canals, etc.

Anyway, by misfortune I had my Mongoose stolen a couple of weeks ago. I think they managed to decipher my revolving number lock. Right near Siam Square too! So, unfortunately, I had to fork out for a new one, about 9,000 baht. But well worth it!

Here's a picture:

My new bike - a Gary Fisher

What's cookin' !?

Hi Bloggers,

What a farce Thai politics are! Prime Minister Samak showed great determination resisting the PAD, but then meekly went out to a court decree terminating his tenure simply because he took a small sum of money for appearing on a cookery show! Apparently this is illegal according to the constitution.

It'll be interesting to see what the next stage of the saga is, as the PPP say they plan to re-instate him. Will the PAD now vacate the government buildings or stay there just in case Samak returns?

Power's a strange game in Thailand! Who actually has it? I wonder.

Any comments, folks?

Cheers,
Rob

Unrest in Bangkok - PAD

Hi Bloggers,

Well, most of my blogs are about my travel experiences. However, I felt I should make some comment about the current political situation here in Bangkok, where a state of emergency has been declared, following the PAD's demonstrations and occupation of the government buildings.

I'm personally strongly against what the PAD are doing, as they're making an absolute mockery of democracy. No matter what the faults of the current government, they were democratically elected, fairly and squarely in what was generally regarded as a legitimate election last year. To just go on the streets like this and try and force change just because their party isn't in power is to reduce politics to mob rule. And this is definitely not what Thailand needs with its history of military coups. It is important that democratic processes be allowed to take root, ultimately for the benefit of all Thais.

On a more general note, I also think most of the anti Taksin feeling is largely political in nature. Actually, Thailand's economy boomed under him and he was certainly more than a competent leader. Regarding the corruption issue, he did nothing any other Thai politician wouldn't have done. Corruption is simply endemic to SE Asian politics. That's not to condone it, but the point is that he also did a hell of a lot of good for the country. He wasn't simply a guy out to fleece the nation, like Marcos of the Philippines, for example. Taksin genuinely cared about the welfare of Thais, particularly the rural poor.

So, all in all, sad times for Thailand at the moment. It'll be interesting to see how the current turmoil affects investor confidence and tourism.

Hope to get a few pics up soon.

Cheers,
Robert

Cairo

Hi Bloggers,

Well, the main highlights of Egypt were the Pyramids and the trip down to Luxor (see previous blogs). However, Cairo itself is also an amazing place. As in so many developing countries, it's a mixture of beauty and ugliness. It's location on the Nile is truly stunning, and gives it a feel of real grandeur. Just the sheer width of the river with its islands, bridges, cruisers and adjacent skyscrapers! Also the architecture of most of the city is from the early 20th century, which creates an atmosphere of faded glory, most of the buildings having now become pretty shabby unfortunately. In it's day it must have looked really opulent, though.





















There were many features of the city I enjoyed, the main ones being the soukhs and bazaars, the river, the food, the museums, the hubub of the street life, the cafes and, of course, the Egyptians themselves. They were all so different fr0m anything in Asia, where I've spent the last nine years. It was a really refreshing experience!














One thing I really noticed, though, was the absence of women in the forefront, in strong contrast to a country like Thailand, where women seem to almost run the place. I must admit I don't like the way women are repressed in Islamic culture, though Egypt is nowhere near as bad as places like Saudi , where they have to wear the full burkha.

















The Egyptians were friendly, but in a very macho kind of way. You always felt under pressure to shape up .... or else! The downside of being with Egyptians was the dreaded "baksheesh".. Just couldn't get away from it. It seems to pervade the whole culture. It's more than just an optional tip. You're really expected to pay it, and as a foreigner I'm sure I payed well over the odds!


More coming,

Luxor

Hi Bloggers,

I just recently got back from Egypt and one of the highlights was most definitely Luxor. The temples and tombs are well documented, so rather than bore you with more about them, I thought I'd tell you something about the place itself.

The town itself was a real delight. It's a simple trading town, lazy and laid back, traditional yet not without modernity, no doubt due to the constant flow of tourists through it.


Main Soukh

The soukhs are particularly atmospheric, even though it is mostly artifacts and souvenirs for tourists they're selling. And the setting by the Nile really does give it some extra beauty. In fact, it's the kind of place it'd be nice to hang out in for a while, doing nothing special.


Traditional hamlet

Equally interesting for me were the hamlets around the town, particularly on the West Bank. I chose to ride around on a rented bike, and I think passing through those villages, little changed for centuries, was almost as interesting as the ancient stuff. And one could get away from those never ending busloads of tourists!



The wonderful Nile

Anyway, here's some of the touristic stuff, the real reason people come here.

Sphynx and Pyramids

Hi Bloggers,

Just spent six great days in Egypt. I did it as a stop-over on the way back from England, where I'd been for my annual visit to see my folks.

Cairo is an exciting, vibrant, dynamic city, both ugly and beautiful at the same time. But more about that in my next blog. This blog is, of course, concerned with what is the highlight, or even sole purpose, of most people's visit here - the Sphynx and Pyramids.

I'm probably committing blasphemy by saying that I thought the pyramids themselves were quite boring! Huge but lacking any real interest other than their shape and size. No ornate carvings or stylised arches or pillars, etc. Nevertheless, I'm still pleased to have seen the only surviving ancient Wonder of the World!

The Sphynx had much greater appeal for me, particularly in its juxta-position to the pyramids. I love its stance and whimsically expressive face. Pity about the broken nose, though!

Below is a picture of a man on a camel. Needless to say I had to pay for this photo, and this is probably the main downside of visiting the touristic areas of Egypt, the ubiquitousness of locals trying to extract money from you. Mind you, Egypt is pretty cheap, certainly more so than anywhere in Asia. Nice picture too!

Local arab man posing on a camel - for LE10!

Chiang Mai

Me again, bloggers!

Before going off to the UK, I also managed to get in a couple of days in Chiang Mai, as well as the trip to Koh Chang. Chiang Mai is probably may favourite medium sized town pretty much anywhere in the world. The only place to seriously rival it, in my opinion, is Yogyakarta in Indonesia. Chiang Mai is pretty well documented with its abundance of Lanna culture, temples and surrounding hills, etc., so rather than bore you with more of that, I thought I'd just mention here a couple of places some of you might not know about.

First is the existence of Baan Tawai, a village about 30 km south of Chiang Mai which is devoted exclusively to handicrafts. This is where they make them, so you get not only an amazing plethora and range of products, but you also get them at ridiculously cheap prices. Most of the stuff is wooden, but there's also ceramics, metal work and some fantastic furniture. Basically to get there, go towards Hang Dong and take a left.

Another great place is the resevoir near Doi Saket. When the water's high it's an awesome view. It's pretty tricky to find, though, but it's on the other side of the motorway from the Doi Saket temple (itself well worth a visit). You turn off at the Chinese cemetry and follow the canal, wiggling through some idyllic little villages. Eventually you'll see the huge banks of the resevoir.

Koh Chang

Hi Bloggers,

I've just spent a few days on Koh Chang on the S.E. coast of Thailand. It was the first time I'd been there, and I must say it was really idyllic, much less developed than Phuket or even Koh Samui. In fact, it's rather like Koh Samui was about ten years ago.

There are some important differences, though. The main one is the hilly nature of the place. It makes for some really spectacular views, but also some pretty hair-raising experiences if you're on a motorbike! Also the beaches aren't quite as good as those on the more reknowned islands. Mind you, this is compensated for by the dense jungle interior and some fine waterfalls.

Vacationing back in the U.K. now before stopping-over in Cairo on the way back.

Angkor and Bayon

Hi Folks,

The Angkor complex is without a doubt one of the most inspiring places to visit anywhere in the world, and surely ranks up there along side Macchu Pichu and the Pyramids, etc. I had actually been there once before, in 2000, but was happy to go again, this time with my friend Gerrit, who had come over from Japan specially.

I personally find the Bayon area the most interesting, with all those giant smiling faces. One can walk around for hours bemused just by the sheer magnitude of the whole thing. Interestingly, most of it pre-dates Buddhism and is consequently largely Hinduistic in design. Not only are there temples, but also, of course, the king's palace and the various terraces around it. Funnily enough, the view from the Leper's Terrace always reminds me of Scotland!

View from the Leper's Terrace


Ta Phrom is also extremely atmospheric, not least because in places the jungle is still trying to reclaim it. Certainly when the original explorers discovered it earlier in the century, it must have seemed liked a fantasy, and no wonder film direcors used it for the Lara Croft movies. The only drawback now is that it's difficult to get away from all the other tourists. Damn inconvenient they are!


The fig tree reclaims Ta Phrom

Phnom Penh

Hi Bloggers,

I've just been on a trip to Cambodia with my friend Gerrit, who came over from Japan. I had actually already been once before in 2000 and was interested to see how much Cambodia had come on since then. To be quite honest, the answer is not a lot, except for the area right down by the river, which has become extremely touristified, and also along the main boulevards, where some quite impressive new hotels have sprung up.

Basically, though, Phnom Penh remains a rough, dirty city with limited amenities, stifling traffic and shockingly dangerous driving. Nevertheless, there's no denying its attractions - the royal palace, ubiquitous temples, French colonial architecture, the reminders of the Khmer Rouge and a stunning location at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Khmer cuisine is also a pleasant surprise. Softer and milder than Thai cuisine, I think it suits westerners better actually.

The terrible reminders of the Pol Pot regime
Anyway, we spent three days here, which included trips to the Killing Fields and the Toul Sleng S-21 interrogation centre (read torture camp). We also rented motorbikes and rode out in the country around. Flat terrain with numerous but isolated toddy palms is the main feature of the Cambodian landscape.

S-21 cells where detainees were kept

Typical Cambodian landscape

Nong Khai

Hi Bloggers,

Here are some shots of my recent trip to Nong Khai. Nong Khai's as charming and sleepy a town as you could hope to find. It lies on the mighty Mekong River which flows unrelentingly on down to Vietnam. The Mekong is one of the widest rivers in Asia, and here is no exception. On the other side you can see Laos. In fact, you can even go across for a day trip via the Friendship Bridge. Mind you, your pocket'll be about $20 lighter for this privilege.

Apart from the laid back feel of the market and central area, the main attraction is Wat Sala Kaew Kou. Within the temple compound is the now famous Sculpture Park, with a huge array of all kinds of statue. Most depict some aspect of the Buddha or Buddhism, but there are also some strange animals, such as dogs and snakes.

Udon Thani

Robinson's - the heart of modern Udon Thani
Last week I made a return trip to Udon Thani, in the far north of Isaan. Actually it's my favourite town up there, as it's got a really sleepy laid back feel to it, in strong contrast to hustle and bustle of Khon Kaen, for example. Yet at the same time, it has a modern downtown area centred around Robinson's. None of the other Isaan towns seem as developed. So it's a great mix of traditional and modern. It's also quite open-planned and easily navigable on a motorbike. Finally, there's a significant farang population, resulting in plenty of appropriate restaurants and bars.

There are tropical plants everywhere














The kind of fare on offer!

A farang area

Singapore

Hi Folks,

Just been to Singapore for three days. Officially I went to get a new visa for my sojourn in Thailand, but, of course, I made a good holiday of it too. I thought it might be boring visiting it a second time, but actually the converse turned out to be true.

It's such a vibrant place, and has really begun to shake off its squeaky clean image. In fact, I thought parts of Singapore looked downright shabby, something few would have dared say ten years ago! Also the shopping malls are starting to look dated. And the MRT? Well, it's definitely in need of a face lift. Maybe, though, my view was shaped by coming there straight from Bangkok, which really is at the cutting edge these days.

Nevertheless, the buzz of the place is undeniable, whether one's in the financial district, Orchard Road, Chinatown, Boat Quay or even impoverished Geylang. Just the sheer number of people busily hiving there way around, all so purposefully. And that combined with these beautifully tranquil tropical green oases of parks everywhere in the town.

It's also a very different kind of vibe from the rest of S.E. Asia, being so Chinese. Strangely, there is an actual Chinatown, but in reality the whole place is one big Chinatown! I think what makes the official Chinatown special is the survival of all the old merchant buildings and the ubiquitousness of the food centres. Plus all those tacky souvenir shops!

And food - boy, can you get it here! Chinese, Thai, Malay, Indian, Indonesian - all catered for in abundance. This is certainly a place to extend your knowledge of cuisine, and particularly Chinese. Mind you, I seemed to end up eating Indian and Malay food as much as anything.

Anyway, by the end, I must say I was really quite sad to leave.

Will write up more about it soon

Phuket

Hi Folks,

It's certanly a long time since I've done any blogging, so I'd better get back to it! Well my latest trip was just down the road to Phuket, well trodden territory indeed. Nevertheless I was interested to see how far it had come since the tsunami. In fact, I had been there just three days before that terrible event. I'm pleased to say you wouldn't even know it had happened. In fact, it's probably even more developed now than before, particularly along Karon beach.

I rode right around the island, and must say you never really feel you're completely away from it, unlike Koh Samui, where you really can get that feeling on its west coast. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my stay and found a few side paths that offered real isolation and seclusion. But generally, I'd say don't come here if you're looking for solitude or something different.

Coup in Bangkok

Well, I was just relaxing watching the news, CNN to be precise, when suddenly they started flashing "Tanks in Bangkok" across the screen. I was pretty surprised, as I thought democracy had a pretty firm foothold here now despite the turmoil back in April.

This is just what this country doesn't need. Even if it passes quickly, investor and tourist confidence will be damaged, both essential to the continuing development of the Thai economy. It's really important they keep trying to make democracy work. It's almost as if the whole thing was just an experiment, if the army can just "take back power" whenever it wants.

What do others reckon? Is anything good going to come out of this?

tropicalrob

My first ever blog! Am working as an English teacher in Bangkok at the moment. Fantastic place. Any other Thai lovers out there. Used to live in Japan before